PUT A LID ON IT!
I love this idea! Take famous fictional or real-life individuals who are known for wearing certain kinds of hats, and then put the type of hat above their names. There wasn't much mystery to the theme: I knew what they were getting at at 25A and 28A, but since I couldn't recall CALAMITYJANE (I was stuck with Annie Oakley, which fortunately didn't fit), I had to wait until 23A: Fictional archaeologist (INDIANAJONES) to get my first theme entry.
Maybe the theme was a little on the easy side: once you got the individual, the hat was a gimme. With the notable exception of CHARLESDEGAULLE and his KEPI. I always forget that type of hat. If I had any complaint about the theme, it would be that the people chosen are fairly old hat at this point.
But really, how about Justin Timberlake for FEDORA? How about Pharrell and whatever that kind of hat is called? Actually, I can't even figure it out after doing some rudimentary Google research. Or Daft Punk and those Power Ranger helmets? Okay, maybe it's a little bit more difficult to get contemporary hat-wearers than I thought.
The fill is FAIR, with some nice bits here and there. 1A: Just is a straightforward thesaurus clue and answer. It's nothing much. I'll give it a C+. Leopold AUER and ALLA breve are classic classical music crosswordese which most longtime solvers wouldn't flinch at. AGOUTIS, NOOR, TSR, AORTAE (annoying one, that), REATA... There's a lot of this stuff.
IMDOINGOK (5D: "Been better, been worse") is a nice entry. AFRIKANER is also a good word. We were just talking about GENX (which I belong to), and how silly it is to assign names and characteristics to generations. I like the way the entry looks in the grid.
84D: Discordant, to some (UNKEYED) is not correct, in my opinion. What they really mean, I think, is atonal. Not having a key assigned does not say anything about the music. For example, Erik Satie's music has no key assigned, but it's far from discordant (think Gymnopedie). Meanwhile, Hindemith's music always has a key assigned, but it's quite discordant, typically. Kind of funny that the answer is right next to 86A: Like Mandarin or Cantonese (TONAL).
Anyway... It was fine, but not great, sort of typical for a Sunday.