Until I got the the revealer, I had no idea what was going on with the theme today. I had filled in SMALLTOWNSALON (21A: *Likely inexpensive place to get one's hair done) pretty quickly, and I think I had also gotten REINDEERRIDE (40A: *Tourist activity in northern Scandinavia), but the others were only partially filled in when I finally got to WHATARETHEODDS (121A: "How lucky was that?" ... or a hint to the answers to the starred clues). Then I noticed that the "odd" (first, third, etc.) letters in the first word of each theme answer spelled the second word. A cute idea. And with that understanding, I was able to quickly fill in the ones I hadn't yet gotten, and the puzzle was soon finished.
I liked the spirit of some clues today, including 18A: "Word that follows 'standard' and means something nonstandard" (DEVIATION), 50A: "It's groovy" (SCREW), 126D "Springs for a vacation?" (SPA), and 83A: "To be abroad?" (ETRE). Which reminds me - it took me far too long to get 32D: "1400" (TWOPM). The 24-hour clock is easy enough to get used to, but I'm still not comfortable with centimeters, or "dainty inches" as a Dutch friend referred to them yesterday. Hah!
ONIONS (77A: Florentine : spinach :: lyonnaise : ____) took me quite a while, because although I pretty much knew what it was, I was unwilling to make onion plural when it didn't have to be. I mean, it works, sure, because you'd never say "spinaches," but then again, I think "onion" would also work fine. Also somewhat non-standard was the "no-H" OOLALA, and I didn't love DRAGGY, but overall, it was a fine Sunday.